To prevent rats from being able to get inside buildings, city officials recommend sealing all holes and cracks in foundations, walls, floors, underneath doors, and around windows. Some examples of materials used for sealing include:
Patches of empty dirt in gardens, planters, and tree beds should be fitted with a top layer of steel mesh or a screen to stop rats from burrowing beneath the soil.
Using a caulking gun, seal cracks and small holes with caulk or cement. Any gap that’s larger than half an inch is big enough for a rat to crawl through. For larger gaps and holes, fill them with cement or expansion foam before covering with steel mesh and seal with cement.
Doors with gaps should be fitted with metal door sweeps to prevent rats from squeezing through underneath. If you see gnaw marks, install sheet metal plates on the bottom of the door.
Lastly, seal any pipes leading into walls with pipe collars and cover any drains or vents with metal screens.
This method uses rodenticide bait (in the form of blocks or pastes) placed inside of tamper-proof boxes. The boxes, called bait stations, are designed to allow rodents to get in and eat the poisoned bait, while keeping it safely out of reach from pets and children.
At MMPC, our exterior rat baiting program uses anticoagulant bait blocks that are formulated to effectively attract and exterminate rats and other rodents.
Rather than killing the target immediately, rodenticides used for exterior rat baiting are designed to be slow-acting—rats usually die after 4 to 6 days of taking the poisoned bait. There are two reasons for this:
Rats are cautious and clever animals, and will avoid taking bait if they see other rats dying from it. Slow-acting rodenticides make it harder for them to associate bait stations with danger.
Rats take food back to their nests to feed their young. Since they’re not immediately lethal, the poisoned bait can be shared with other rats to effectively whittle down large outdoor rat populations.
In NYC, you are allowed to place rodent bait on your property if you live in your own home without tenants. However, commercial and multi-unit property owners must hire a licensed pest control company to do it.
In the air, carpet, counter or cupboard, every home shares its resources with these tiny, often unseen invaders. Pesticides are available for most common household insect pests, but these potent chemical compounds may be more harmful to you and the environment than the pests.
You’ll notice that one nontoxic remedy is mentioned in most of the pest problems listed below: diatomaceous earth (DE). DE is not that well known, yet we think DE should be the first line of defence for insect problems in the home since it is non-toxic, inexpensive, safe for use around kids and pets, and broad spectrum. To learn more, read our article: Diatomaceous Earth: Non-Toxic Insect Pest Control for Your Home and Garden
The first line of defense is to remove the attractants: keep counters free of crumbs and sticky spots. Cover the sugar and put the honey jar in a plastic baggie. Cut off water sources such as drips or dishes left soaking overnight.
Set out cucumber peels or slices in the kitchen or at the ants’ point of entry. Many ants have a natural aversion to cucumber. Bitter cucumbers work best.
Leave a few tea bags of mint tea near areas where the ants seem most active. Dry, crushed mint leaves or cloves also work as ant deterrents.
Trace the ant column back to their point of entry. Set any of the following items at the entry area in a small line, which ants will not cross: cayenne pepper, citrus oil (can be soaked into a piece of string), lemon juice, or cinnamon or coffee grounds.
Mix one liter of water, one teaspoon of Borax, and one cup of sugar. Soak cotton balls in the solution and place them in a small yogurt container with holes punched in the lids to allow ants access. Place container in a location where ants are present. Ants will carry the bait back to their colonies where it will eventually kill the colony. Important: use indoors only; this must be kept away from pets and children.
Leave a small, low wattage night light on for a few nights in the area of most ant activity. The change in light can disrupt and discourage ant foraging patterns.
Pest Control ServiceMicroscopic dust mites are everywhere in the home: in our beds, clothing, furniture, bookshelves, and stuffed animals. For people with allergies or asthma, dust mites are a serious problem.
Vacuum mattresses and pillows. Wash bedding regularly at 130 F (55 C) or higher. Detergents and commercial laundry products have no effect on mites unless the water temperature is high. Wash stuffed animals in hot water and place in dryer on hot for at least 15 minutes. Freezing will also kill dust mites but won’t remove allergens.
For people with allergies to dust mites, dust mite bedding, pillowcases, and duvet and mattress covers are available with zippered, allergen-impermeable encasings designed to block dust mites. Check these periodically to ensure no rips are present. Avoid fabric-covered headboards.
Keep books, stuffed animals, throw rugs, and laundry hampers out of the bedroom of allergy sufferers. For children, store all but a few favorite toys away and rotate out periodically.
Dust your mattress, rugs, bedding, and surrounding area with diatomaceous earth. Leave for 2-3 hours or overnight if possible before vacuuming up. Food-grade diatomaceous earth will reduce dust mite populations (along with bed bugs and fleas) and isn’t harmful to humans.
According to the Asthma and Allergy Foundation of America, dust mites thrive in humidity higher than 70%. Measure your bedroom’s humidity levels and use a dehumidifier if necessary. Dust mites also prefer temperatures between 68 and 77 degrees Fahrenheit (20 to 25 degrees Celsius), so keep your bedroom’s temperature below this range.
Tannic acid neutralizes the allergens in dust mite and animal dander. Dust problem areas with tannic acid powder, available at health food stores and pet centers.
Tannic acid neutralizes the allergens in dust mite and animal dander. Dust problem areas with tannic acid powder, available at health food stores and pet centers.
Cover heating ducts with a filter that can trap tiny dust particles smaller than 10 microns. Avoid using humidifiers. Dust mites thrive on warmth and humidity.
The best defense against cockroaches is a clean kitchen and bathroom. If roaches are a problem in your home or apartment, vacuum well and wash the area with a strong soap. Dispose of the vacuum cleaner bag in a sealed container.
Diatomaceous earth is a safe alternative that can be sprinkled in areas where roaches congregate, especially hidden areas such a cabinet tops and behind appliances. Harmless to people, the tiny particles cut the waxy exoskeleton and kills the insect within 48 hours. For a week or so after the treatment, the dehydrating insects will search more actively for water. Therefore, do not be surprised if you see roaches more often after the treatment. Most roaches should be killed within two weeks of application. Learn more or purchase diatomaceous earth.
Catnip is a natural repellent to cockroaches. The active ingredient is nepetalactone, which is non-toxic to humans and pets. Leave small sachets of catnip in areas of cockroach activity. You can also simmer catnip in a small amount of water to make a “catnip tea” which can be used as a spray to apply around baseboards and behind counters. This natural repellent should only be used in homes without cats!
Keep a spray bottle of soapy water on hand. Spraying roaches directly with soapy water will kill them.
In an empty one-pound coffee can, place one or two pieces of bread that have been soaked thoroughly with beer. Set a ramp leading up to the top and line the inside top edge with Vaseline. Place in areas known to have roach infestations.
It is a little known fact that roaches like high places. If you put boric acid on TOP of your kitchen cabinets (not inside), if space allows between ceiling and cabinets, the roaches will take the boric acid to their nests, killing all of them. Boric acid is toxic by mouth so keep away from children and pets.
Leave bay leaves, cucumber slices, or garlic in the affected area as deterrents. Non-toxic roach traps are also commercially available.
Fleas usually gain entry to your home through your pet or visitors’ pets. For every flea on your pet, there may be as many as 30 more in the pet’s environment. For flea problems in the home, the best line of defence is twofold: first, put an electric flea trap in the area your pet frequents the most; complement this by laying out diatomaceous earth (DE) in your home’s more discreet areas.